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Author:
Velvetfoot (NY)
Homeowner here. I've decided to go ahead with a watercop install (yes, I'm thinking it's mostly toy/gadget kind of thing - maybe I can impress friends - maybe I'm just looking for something to sweat using my new-found mad skills with lead free solder).
Anyway, the valve has threads. I have copper pipe. My plan was to thread in copper fittings and then sweat in the assembly with valve open. Qustion is, how do I guarentee a water tight because they can't be twisted once soldered in? I've used the pipe dope more than a few times and I think it seals better than the tape.
Am I taking the right approach?
Would a coupling or some other approach be more appropriate?
I'm not sure how many operations the ball valve will take, if that's a factor.
Thanks for any advice.
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Author:
x apprentice 22 (MA)
I use teflon tape and pipe dope or use a pipe dope with teflon in it and pray to the plumbing god that it doesn t leak.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
dlh (TX)
i would install 2 unions that way if your threads leak you can tighten them and when the valve goes bad you can replace it easily
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
jimmy-o (CA)
The "book" on metal pipe threads is 3½ turns by hand, 4 turns by wrench. But threads vary condsiderably from "spec" so there is just a certain "touch" that is involved.
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Author:
Velvetfoot (NY)
This thing is going to have a lightweight motor operator on it.
Are unions pretty sturdy?
I'll have to check them out.
Thanks all for the comments.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
waukeshaplumbing (WI)
i cant remember ever having a threaded water pipe leak on me.
if you tape and dope the male end and crank it with a channel locks you wont have a problem..
dont over tighten or you will crack the fitting.
alot of it is by feel and experience.
use unions if you lack confidence
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Author:
joe plumber (NE)
I have to agree with dlh.Using unions is just common sense.Sooner or later the unit will go bad and a union will make it a lot easier to replace the unit.Being in the business for 42 years I can't say that I have never had a pipe leak on me ,I'm sure others will agree.I have either used teflon or pipe dope,but not together.I can remember when there wasn't such a thing as teflon tape.I can also remember making our own pipe dope.
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Author:
PlumerDan (CA)
get couple of sharkbite male x slip adapters. that way if theres alittle drip you can snug it a little bit...secret is not to over tighten right off the bat....good luck
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Author:
Shoemaker2 (MA)
You should solder the male adapters onto copper pipe before screwing them into the valve, for the valve should not be heated as hot as it would get if soldered in place. It is always good practice to solder male adapters in this way so the heat doesn't effect the integrity of the threaded joint seal by heating and cooling.
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Author:
Velvetfoot (NY)
Thanks everyone.
I'll check out unions.
I'd prefer to solder first and then screw in, but the valve has a goes-inner and a goes-outer, so that's not possible.
Plus, orientation of final assembly is a factor.
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Author:
Velvetfoot (NY)
The valve came in. Fairly substantial. I think I will try to keep the heat away, if only from a heat sink point of view.
Those copper unions really are good from a leak point of view?
I'm thinking, the more threads the worse.
Thanks.
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Author:
dlh (TX)
they will seal and be fine. there are literally thousands upon thousands of similar set ups across the country, as far as the unions go
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
Velvetfoot (NY)
Thanks again to all.
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Author:
Velvetfoot (NY)
Well it doesn't leak, lol.
The unit doesn't seem to be built that well. The actuator wasn't aligned correctly so that the valve was partially, not fully open. There is no adjustment of the limit switch. I wound up taking it apart and moving the switch and reinstalling it, which mostly worked. The hardware inside is held onto the case by screws that rest right on plastic. I don't know, it doesn't seem that well built.
I'm not finished putting in the 3 sensors I got or the on/off switch, which is connected by cat5 cable that goes in the plug. on the front of the switch.
I tested it, and it worked. Thing is, turnoff isn't instantaneous: the water that is in the pipes above still goes through the leak.
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Author:
dlh (TX)
nice looking install.
everything is being built as cheap as possible these days. it is getting hard to find decent materials even.
as long as it stops the water from flowing it is doing all it can. it is not designed to relieve the residual pressure that is left in the line after it shuts off the water nor is it designed to drain the residual water. it is only designed to shut the water off and thus avoid a major flood
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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"
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Author:
Velvetfoot (NY)
Thanks.
Yeah, and first the water has to find a sensor, lol.
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