I am renovating the kitchen in my new apartment. I need to extend the gas pipe so I can put the range in the middle of the wall next to the wall the gas pipe is located in. I will be putting a corner cabinet in the corner where the gas pipe currently is. Below are some pictures of the visible part of the pipe. The shut off for the pipe is all the way at the end, but in order to reroute it, my contractor says he will have to cut it below the shut off valve, right after where it comes out of the wall. I called the gas company and they said the whole building only has 1 account, so according to them I can't shut off the gas to only my unit, and they said you cant shut off the gas for only 2 hours, once you turn it off, it wont be back on for 4 or 5 days. How do I extend the pipe so I can put my range on a different wall? If I break through the sheetrock is there likely to be anoter shut off before the pipe joins the main line?

Thanks for the info

Call a Licensed Plumber,Natural Gas is not a DIYSer job...and put a cap on the end of that gas line....someone hits that easy turn stop and your going to have problems.

I don't know because none of the pictures show whats on the other side of the wall... Follow the pipe!

But do have a licensed plumber do the work.
Cap that line as JR suggested.

Remodeling by gas explosion is a lot of work!

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Edited 1 times.

I'll cap the line asap, what kind of cap should I buy? My contractor works with licenced plumber, but maybe there are options he doesn't know about. Is there any way to cut the pipe below the shut off valve if the gas can't be shut down?

He will know...call him (The Licensed Plumber).

Gas piping should always be installed by a licensed plumber and be inspected.

Gas the energy source that can make your house sneeze!
One second you own a nice home...
The next second you own a vacant lot with a smoldering pile of toothpicks!

This was a Greek Orthadox Church LPG Explosion Colchester CT.

Check out these 2 links:

[www.wtnh.com]

[www.channelcincinnati.com]

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meyerovb,With all do respect the Pro's in This Forum will not give advise when it comes to Gas.Please come back for Plumbing/venting and even heating Problems.Good Luck.

Make sure that the 'contractor' has a licensed Plumber performing the Plumbing work. The Co-Op board of directors probably requires it, so you, and the rest of the building is protected by having only licensed and insured professionals working for them.

There are a couple of different ways to accomplish what you need to but it is not a DIY project nor should a typical general contractor touch the gas, water or drains.

Who's the rocket scientist that left an open gas line like that without plugging or capping it?

*A Plumbing permit and inspection is a must for this project.

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"The society which scorns excellence in Plumbing as a humble activity and tolerates shoddiness in philosophy because it is an
exalted activity will have neither good Plumbing nor good philosophy: neither its pipes nor its theories will hold water." -
John William Gardner 10/8/1912 - 2/16/2002

Repair your leaking Plumbing fixtures ASAP [www.theplumber.com]
This slow drip will waste 7+ gallons of water per day.

you do have one option no ones mentioned yet,have your contractor simply notch the rear of the cabinets...after the plumber runs the line to where you need it.make sure it's strapped ect. if the gas would truly be off to the whole bldg 4-5 days this may be a good option.....good luck

After thinking about this some more, I would like to ask if anything else in this home runs on gas...i.e. a furnace or water heater? If so, there must be a main gas supply shut-off somewhere. On the other hand, if heat and water are "central" and this is the only gas to your home, then this is probably the only valve.

As far as the cap, the easist thing to do is get two large pipe wrenches ( 12 or 18". Hold back on the nipple coming out of the valve, unscrew the reducing coupling, and install a female cap on the nipple.

If I can't turn the main off the only option I have (other than reconfiguring my design) is to embed it inside the cabinet, but the cabinet is a corner cabinet with a lazy susan... this is gonna be one big headache! Thankfully this is the only snag I've run into so far (other than being overcharged, lol). The way the pipe is now, can I even install a modern range against the wall with the piping, or would the pipe block the range from sliding all the way in to the wall?

the range will not slide all the way to the wall. a lazy susan might leave enough room for the pipe to squease by , i dont think those go all the way back.

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Is this pipe like not up to code or something, is it extended too far from the wall for modern ranges?

it depends on what wall the range was on. it seems to hug the wall where the valve is. if the range backed up to the wall where it stubs out from then yes it is to far out for todays ranges and maybe even the older ones to.

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

The back of the range was on the same wall as the sink, the wall the gas pipe is coming out of. Does this setup look about right for a 50's era 24" gas range, which is what I think was there previously?

looks like it was hard piped right to the unit

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"



Edited 1 times.

yaaaa the good old day's dlh...when a gas stove took 2 hours to install.

the good ol' days when everything was labor intensive

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

It would block most modern ranges with a flush back.

That's half of a union on that pipe end. It should be removed and replaced with proper size cap. General practice is that gas valves should be somewhere they can be reached - means your chances of finding a valve buried in the wall are slim to none.

Overall, it will probably cost you, but gas company guys are actually those who are best qualified to help here. In my recent gas install, the new gas piping inside the house was tested and inspected. However, the guys from PSEG who came in to do the hookup did quite a bit of assembly on their own. Regulator, filter, meter, and the pipe hookup from meter to the sleeve going into the house. They also did work inside the house: namely, uncapped a drip leg in order to bleed air out of the line. Work done by THEM apparently needed no inspection. Since it was a new service hookup, I was not paying for it.

What I am getting at here is that gas company tech should be able to turn off gas, remove most of that pipe, install a valve, nipple and cap and turn gas back on - all in a space of a couple hours. But be prepared to pay about 2x what a regular plumber would charge.

The gas company will not do work inside of an apartment.
In NY, only licensed Plumbers perform gas work on the house side of the meter.

I doubt the poster even has a Plumber on the job, a competent one would not of left a live gas line open, (without plugging or capping it).

e-plumber
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"The society which scorns excellence in Plumbing as a humble activity and tolerates shoddiness in philosophy because it is an
exalted activity will have neither good Plumbing nor good philosophy: neither its pipes nor its theories will hold water." -
John William Gardner 10/8/1912 - 2/16/2002

Repair your leaking Plumbing fixtures ASAP [www.theplumber.com]
This slow drip will waste 7+ gallons of water per day.

same here. there responsibility and insurance stops at the meter here although they will re-light pilots and check for leaks in the building well maybe not an apartment building though.

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Same here DLH. If they find a leak they shut off and red tag saying call a plumber!

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God bless the State of New Jersey in that case.