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 p-trap offset
Author: GWP (PA)

I'm in the middle of gutting my kitchen and have been advised here to offset the drain pipe coming out of the wall so that the p-trap can clear any future garbage disposal installation and to do it 12" above the floor (8" above the bottom shelf of the cabinet which is 4" off of the floor). The studs are exposed at present.
What piece or pieces do I need to add to the two pieces of the 1 1/2" p-trap to get this done?
Thanks.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: steve (CA)

You don't alter the trap, but instead relocate the pipe in the wall. Also, if you are working on the in-wall piping, put in a cleanout fitting in, above the tee that the trap attaches to.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: GWP (PA)

I'm asking how to get the two piece p-trap to the wall where I will locate the drain pipe? The p-trap will not be going straight back into the wall but will have to have a 90 degree bend in order to mate up with the offset drain pipe that will be 6 inches to the right of the center of the sink. What kind of piece exists to accomplish this?
I hope I am making myself clear.



Edited 1 times.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: hj

No way to tell without a picture of what you now have.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: jerco (MD)

What materials are you using? What is sticking out of the wall?

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: GWP (PA)

I gutted my kitchen and there are just bare studs and subfloor showing so I can do whatever I want. This is like new construction. All I am talking about is installing a kitchen sink and cabinet and running a p-trap into the wall, offset by 6 inches so I can install a garbage disposal later.
The drain pipe that will go behind the wall is 1 1/2" copper with a trap adaptor sweated on the end. I want to offset the drain pipe 6 inches to the right or left of the centerline of the sink tailpiece so that it can clear a future garbage disposal installation.
What part must I add to the two pieces of the p-trap to get this done? Some kind of elbow?

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: redwood (CT)

Can you post a pic?

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: GWP (PA)

There is nothing there now.
Picture a sink with the drain hole located in the center of the sink. Also picture a vertical line drawn at the center of the back of the sink cabinet. I want to locate the copper drain pipe 6" to the right or left of that imaginary line rather than directly on that line.
How do I get the p-trap to go there?
Sorry that this is getting so complicated.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: jjbex (IL)

An 1-1/2" tubular p-trap will swing 3" either way. Either use an end outlet or center outlet waste, whichever will allow you to line up with the drain.

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"You can't get there from here"
Berry/Buck/Mills/Stipe

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: steve (CA)

Does the trap connect to a tee fitting in the wall, with the drain pipe dropping straight down from the tee and the vent pipe rising up from the tee? If yes and you want the drain pipe that is in the wall shifted over 6", you would cut the drain and vent pipes high and low, sweat 45* fittings to the pipes to angle over and then 2 more 45* fittings to bring the drain and vent piping back in alignment and into the tee. Pictures would be helpfull. We can mark up your photos and repost them.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: hj

It is getting complicated because we don't know if you are working with a completely new drain which is not there yet, in which case this talk about elbows, etc., is irrelevent, or there is an existing pipe in the wall, and in that case we have to know how high the opening is in the vertical pipe. Normally, everything you are asking would be intuitive and self evident just by looking at what you have there.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: dlh (TX)

ok, so you want to know how to connect the p-trap to the new drain that you are going to run for your new sink, right?

there are fittings you can use to adjust the drain line outside the walls but that is irrelevant at this point since you dont have a drain in the wall or the wall finished or the sink installed. until you are to the point where you are installing the p-trap we can not say what you are going to have to do to get the trap connected to the drain.

just install your drain pipe 6" off center of the SINK (not the basket strainer) and you should not have to worry about the trap not lining up.

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: GWP (PA)

You last two guys get it. There is nothing there now; I will put the new vertical, vented copper drain line six inches off of the center of the sink in order to be able to install a garbage disposal at a later date.
I will be using a metal p-trap, not plastic, and want to know what extra fiting(s) I will have to buy in order to make the p-trap mate up with the adaptor that will be sticking out of the wall 12 inches off of the floor.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: dlh (TX)

until you are to that point we can not say what you will need because you should not need anything. as stated before the 1 1/2" trap will swing up to 3" left and right of the drain line.

- - - - - - -

PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: redwood (CT)

And the missing information is how is the line in the wall running??? To where? How? How is it vented? What sink are you using? How many basins does it have? How deep is it? Dimensions from drain hole in sink(s) to outlet in wall? More info is needed to tell you because we would like to tell you not to use one of these.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: GWP (PA)



I know the trap will swing 3 inches, but that will not clear a future garbage disposal so I need about 6 inches of offset. I will install the vertical drain/vent pipe 6" to the left of the centerline of the single basin, 8" deep, 25"x22" standard Kohler Mayfield kitchen sink. That centerline is 5 feet from the main 4" soil stack.

"And the missing information is how is the line in the wall running???"
"To where?" How? How is it vented? What sink are you using? How many basins does it have? How deep is it? Dimensions from drain hole in sink(s) to outlet in wall?"

There is a wye in the main 4" cast iron soil stack (in a heated crawl space). Presently, a 1 1/2" copper drain pipe runs horizontally under the joists and connects to that wye. That line is presently cut off about 4 1/2 from the stack (the old vertical portion that ran to the old sink is removed). I will run new 1 1/2" copper pipe up two vertical feet (behind the kitchen wall which is now exposed) to a sanitary t (with about a short section of pipe and trap adaptor for a BRASS p-tube going through the wall and into the new cabinet back with about 1 inch of pipe and trap adaptor showing) at 12" above the kitchen floor and then, for venting, continue it on up another three vertical feet, then turn it back to the main stack where I will cut a hole and use a saddle to join it to the main stack. It seems like an ordinary system.
I will probably use plastic for the venting part of the system since copper is so expensive.

I just need to know what part I must add to the brass p-trap to get it to mate with the trap adaptor? I will not proceed without all the parts in hand.



Edited 1 times.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: steve (CA)

If a compression connection is allowed by local code, the trap adapter shown here is what is soldered on to the stub coming out of the wall.


Code might not allow you to cut in a saddle to the 4" for the vent. The 4" might need a section completely cut out and a wye/tee fitting installed.

Code might also require you to run a 2" drain pipe from the 4" main.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: jerco (MD)

The disposal drain ell will be offset at least 3" from the center of the sink drain hole. Just turn the disposal until the ell is lined up with wherever the trap ends up.


Or you can just come out of the wall with a (soldered on) 45 pointing towards the disposal. I don't understand how someone doing all the rough plumbing can be having so much difficulty figuring out the easiest part of the job.



Edited 1 times.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: hj

Probably a copper 45 elbow or street 45 elbow.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: hj

You are assuming you will install the disposer with the outlet to the rear. That is not necessary, and actually is seldom done. You can rotate the disposer so the outlet is to the side and then the trap will line up with its outlet without any fittings.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: GWP (PA)

"I don't understand how someone doing all the rough plumbing can be having so much difficulty figuring out the easiest part of the job."

That's because I said I was NOT installing a disposal at this time! I want to offset the drain because a future homeowner may want to install a disposal and I want to make it easy for some future plumber.
I would not be asking this question if I just wanted to connect a p-trap to a drain pipe directly in line with the tailpiece (or 3 inches to the right or left).
BTW, the little brass fitting on the end of the pipe in the picture I posted is a trap adaptor that will be sweated onto the end of the stub out.
All the venting and draining will be done in accordance with code.

Now will someone please tell me what kind of &**(%^ fitting it takes to join the trap arm to a 6" offset stubout!



Edited 2 times.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: jerco (MD)

Boy you're thick.

"Or you can just come out of the wall with a (soldered on) 45 pointing towards the disposal."

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: redwood (CT)

Whatever it takes! I too don't understand the problem! I usually just look at what I'm connecting grab what I think I need of the truck and do it. Worst case scenario I carry an extra part back out with me or have to go back out to the truck for a part. [www.watts.com]

Thick? Might be an understatement!



Edited 1 times.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: GWP (PA)



This?

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: redwood (CT)

Contact Rube Goldberg...[www.rube-goldberg.com] He can fix you up! I don't believe I have ever used one of those... Probably never will either!



Edited 2 times.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: jerco (MD)

Or this


Or this


Or any number of other fittings that can move a drain line from one place to another.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: hj

22 1/2, street 22 1/2, 45 or street 45, obviously.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: hj

Not unless you are a masochist. That will give you more headaches than you need or want. Use a solder drain fitting.

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 Re: p-trap offset
Author: hj

The only fitting that would be worse than that offset, would be the double slip joint 45 in the upper picture.

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