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 float in pressure tank
Author: Anonymous User

i have a presure tank with a float assy valve in it is the float assy suppose to let excess air that is entering it out thru the schrader valve when the well pump goes on out of the tank? thanks in advance Danny



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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: MD Plumber

Not sure what you mean by float assy. But the schrader valve is there to adjust the pressure in the tank. It should not release air during operation.

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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: mikeinpa (VA)

As air begins to accumalate in the tank from pump starts, the capacity of the water storage will decrease causing the level of the float to open because of the excess air and release it until it is satisfied then the air valve will close

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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: Anonymous User

Thanks for the fast reply. I took out the float assy as it was broken now I notice my water level in the tank is much lower and when I use the faucet the water is very milky it is loaded with air if I replace a new float assy in the tank will it correct this problem? Am I correct in assuming there is to much air entering the tank and no way for it to get out causing the milky water and the lower water level? I took out the float two months ago also can I just unscrew the tank pressure indicator and install new float or do I have drain the tank completley to relese the pressure thanks in advance Danny



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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: Anonymous User

yes if your pump system has an air injection designed into it you will need to replace that float valve to keep the proper amount of air in the tank and that should fix your milky water. There are other things that can allow air in or create milky water but under the circumstances you described a new float valve should solve your problems.

good luck in finding the valve... I'm sure there are supply houses out there with them sitting on the shelf (if you can find someone that knows what you're talking about), but everytime i need one i usually have to special order it from the manufacturer, so i keep one in stock now.

There are different types of valves available depending on your pump system. If your float valve was screwed into the side of the pressure tank (1-1/4" threads) with only a gauge on the valve and nothing else attached to it like a 1/4" or 3/8" tubing coming from a diaghram or pressure regulator looking device, then you probly just need the plain air release float valve. I've used Goulds Pumps "AA4 air release valve" is a nice heavy brass one and there is the Brady Products "BAR-125 air release valve" that is pvc.

good luck,

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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: Anonymous User

To Clayton thanks for the fast reply I have the type that just screws into the tank with the pressure gauge will replacing the float raise the water level in the tank as I noticed it is much lower since removed the defective float thanks again Danny

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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: Anonymous User

yes it will start venting the exess air from the tank and allow the water level to raise. The floats I have used, came preset to start venting the air at about 20psi and are adjustable. the preset seemed to work fine for me on the 82gl tanks running on 30-50 switches for me. I dont know if the preset will work for all sizes of tanks and pressure settings so you may have to make adjustments to the valve so you can get the proper amount of gallons of draw down between each pump cycle.

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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: Anonymous User

Hi Clayton my float assy has a schrader valve attached to it I guess when the float reaches a certain level it stops letting the air out automatically by the way I have a meyers 120 gal tank that is about 35 years old so am i safe in assuming I wont have to adjust anything just install float and it will automatically do what it is suppose to thanks again clayton I cant thank you enough for your expert advice Danny



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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: Anonymous User

is the schrader valve sticking out of the bottom of the valve?

if so, can you see the little needle/plunger inside of it that you push down to release air or does it appear the guts of the valve are missing? this kind of float valve is different from the styles i mentioned before. The schrader valve is installed in the float valve with the plunger facing inside so the float can push it down although it works similar to the way the 2 float valves i mentioned earlier it is actually supose to have tubing connected from the schrader valve down to a vacuum on a jet pump/ others are designed to attached to an air outlet on an old piston style water pump. What style of pump do you have? i've been assuming you are using a submersible pump with a bleeder/drain valve installed in the well casing a certain distance from a check valve. If you are using the submersible pump the float valves(air release valves) i mentioned earlier will work, but if you are using another style of pump i would need to know how you are introducing air into the system to know which style of air volume control valve to use.

EDIT: [www.plumbingstore.com]
(air ejector controls)



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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: Anonymous User

Hi Clayton I am picking up the float tommorow and I will describe it to you . I do have a deep well with a bleed back system after the well stops pumping the water after the check valve drains down about 7 feet to keep the well from freezing .I will talk to you tommorow thanks again for all your time and information Danny

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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: Anonymous User

just wanted to mention something about the drain valve in your well casing. Many ppl believe its purpose is to protect the well pipe from freezing, but water wells should have a well seal on top to protect cold air from entering, and the water pipes should exit the side of the well casing(unless the well is located in a "pump house";) below the frost line in your area, ground heat will raise in the casing and protect the pipes from freezing as long as the casing is sealed. The reason for the drain valve and check valve is, that is your source for air injection for your galvanized tank. When the pump kicks on the water raises and traps the column of air that is between the drain valve and the check valve and pushes it up into your galvanized pressure tank.

Now if you ever have your pump replaced, make sure the drain valve and check valve are kept in the system as long as you are using that galvanized pressure tank.

If you ever decide to finaly change to a bladder style pressure tank you will need to have the drain valve removed from the system (or you will have milky water again) and make sure there is a check valve on top of the submersible pump, and make sure all your piping is below frost level or protected from freezing as it will all stay under pressure(and prevent air from entering the system).

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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: Anonymous User

HI Clayton I just bought the new air volume control it is a ametek type WJ it says the relief valve is set at 25 lbs of per square inch and should give satisfactory performance in most installations it says if air escapes through the service lines after system has been in service for a while the pressure should be decreased by turning the adjusting screw to the left and if the pump runs to much the venting pressure should be increased by turning the screw to the right. Clayton do they mean if I still have air in my water faucet I should turn adjusting screw counter clockwise? also can I just shut off the well pump and drain the water down in the tank and remove old pressure gauge and install new float with gauge and then turn on well switch and that should be it with nothing else to do ? Clayton thanks again for being so helpful the world needs more people like you PS my well switch is set at 30& 60 on at 30 and off at 60 thanks again Danny

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 Re: float in pressure tank
Author: Anonymous User

You are correct, if you still get air in the water you can loosen the screw a small amount to allow it to start venting air at a lower psi which will allow more air out. Depending on how much water you use it may take a few days for the float and pump system to get balanced out and stabalize the air/water volume in the tank. You will probly be able to see the water level in the tank from a condensation ring on the outside of the tank.

Yes just shut the pump down and open faucets that are below the level of the fitting on the side of the tank you want to remove to install the new float. Try not to overtighten the valve, install the float valve so it is tight when you get it postitioned in its straight upright position.

Glad if I was of any help, I've very little experience with this type of system as they seem to be pretty much obsolete now and i'm just a young pup in the plumbing industry, luckily i've had the opportunity to work with a few of the old timers (my dad) on these and other old systems and learn a few things. Its been a nice refresher to try and answer your questions. Hope everything works great without further adjustments, keep us posted with your results.

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 Re: a million thanks
Author: Anonymous User

Hi Clayton Thanks for the fast responce I will install the float sat I will definately let you know how I make out.I will make a new post under the caption Clayton float in pressure tank this way when you see your name you will know it is in reference to you a million thanks again Danny

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